Too many cooks? Not in this kitchen

“Mess, don’t press!” Simone, chef-owner of the Ristorante Malborghetto, is showing me how to make a ragù. “This way we mix all the flavours – and we don’t burn the pan,” he smiles. He’s right. Although we cook the meaty stew for more than two hours, a little gentle coaxing with the spoon and a…